By Mouna Harati
Friends were convinced Sandra Mansour would become a painter in the future, but the Lebanese designer set sail on a different— successful —creative path. Born and raised in Switzerland, Mansour’s upbringing is clearly evident in her designs. Her pieces hold an ethereal appeal and are a refreshing breathe of air in a region dominated by sparkles and glitter. Light, lacey flattering silhouettes are her signature and have helped Mansour to set an identity of her own—and on her own.
I sat down with the designer at her Beirut studio to talk inspirations, destiny and why lace is her go to fabric.
What was the inspiration behind your latest collection?
My Spring/Summer 14 collection pays homage to the Chinese painter Guo Fengyi. One can witness the use of light transparencies and soft silks that create flowing silhouettes. I also used the sturdy gazar fabric to add a weightless volume to the long skirts - key pieces of the SS2014 collection. Once again, elaborate fabrics such as crepe, hand-woven lace and embroideries were applied to the basic codes of the brand. A sensual color palette that includes royal blue, soft yellow, nudes and beige rose are the dominant hues in the collection.
Your biggest source of inspiration? Films? Books? Art?
The inspiration behind each collection is derived from multiple facets, be it from painters, paintings, fashion industry players, landscapes and 60s movies such as Sabrina with Audrey Hepburn. Nonetheless, my collections are usually based around one painter and my touch is in my approach, which is minimalistic and grungy.
Lace seems to be a recurring fabric used in your collections. Would you call it your signature?
The notion of transparency is a cornerstone in each of my collections. Therefore, the use of fluid fabrics such as lace and Mousslin are habitual fabrics in the brand. Typically, such transparent fabrics are coupled with structured ones like gazar to portray a feminine soft look while starring away from the ultra-romanticism feel.
Why fashion design?
Fashion Design was not my first choice yet the idea and the process of creating has always intrigued me. Mixing colors with textiles was the middle ground between my admiration for painting and execution, hence my pathway into fashion design.
If you weren’t a fashion designer, what would you have liked to be?
Painter
Over the past years, you’ve really grown as a designer. What advice would you give to up and coming fashion designers?
A positive attitude, motivation and constantly taking initiatives are, in my opinion, factors of success – and of course, always surrounding yourself with good energy!
As an Arab designer, is it important for you to be based in this region?
Yes, being based in the region helps me to relate better with my private clients in terms of understanding their needs and lifestyle.
Do you have a specific woman in mind when you design?
Daring, confident and opinionated.
Which living designer do you most admire?
Haider Ackermann
How do you best describe your style?
Coupling a minimalistic item with a more elaborate one is what I usually resort to when it comes to my attire.
What’s playing on your iPod?
London Grammer
Les Rita Mitsouko | Jean-Baptiste Mondino | C’est comme ça
Lee Hazlewood | Bye Baby
Play Tears For Fears | Mad World (1983, original)
OMD | Messages