by Mouna Harati

Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi has always been in a league of his own. Since 2007, he has been designing for his eponymous label, Ashi Studio. His signature dramatic, romantic couture pieces have been compared to the late great Alexander McQueen’s (they share a similar flair), and hence, have built a strong following.
 
Fittingly, we decided to start off our editorial series, "A Conversation with…” whereby we interview talents, both regionally and internationally, who are setting their mark in a big way in the fashion industry, with a young Arab talent with the design maturity of a master couturier. 
 
Having just showcased his latest collection in Paris, we sat down with the designer to discuss inspiration, style and success. 
 
I loved your latest collection, what was the inspiration behind it?
A photography book by Marcus Weill inspired the collection. In the book, he mentions, “most of our virtues and arts have to do with the fear of death” which I found very true and striking. The emotions portrayed in his photography gave me the idea to use Grace Kelly as a muse.

Your collection’s extravagance is quite remarkable. Would you refer to it as prêt-à-porter?
Yes, it is prêt-à-porter in terms of being sold to stores around the world like the US, Russia, Gulf, London and soon in Italy. But the craftsmanship for sure is couture standard; it’s all about modernizing the couture concept.

Where do you usually draw your inspiration? Travel? Book? Film?
Mainly from books and films.
 
How do you best describe your style?
It’s dark, romantic and modern.

Your collections are always composed of light tones. Is there a reason why you stick to this specific color palette?
It’s a contrast of striking volume and cuts with light colors that result in a dramatic yet soft and romantic look, which is easy on the eyes.

Where is your collection made?
All my work is handmade in Lebanon, except for a small part that is outsourced to other countries.

How is your success been so far?
Recently we have been recognized by Franca Sozzani, chief editor of Vogue Italia where she exposed us to the secret world of fashion and the elite circle that helped us in building a strong relation in the fashion world. Today, we are considered one of the emerging fashion houses that have established a name in a short amount of time.

Which type of women best identifies with your brand?
Modern edgy plus trendy and chic.
 
Do you design with a particular woman in mind?
Usually, I work with an artistic concept not thinking about dressing women but thinking of how I can create a piece that is new and innovative.