Creative Director Daniel Roseberry gave through the Schiaparelli Couture Spring-Summer 2025 collection a nod to a wide range of references – obsessions – from the past century. He brought back the snaky, curvy forms from the 1920s and 1930s that found shape in fragile silk georgette embroidered with Japanese bugle beads, took severe-shouldered prewar Schiaparelli jackets and simplified and elongated them, pairing them with 1990s-style simple bias-cut floor-length column skirts in double satins, and a lot more. Along his creative journey to design this collection, the ateliers were mastering the technique of building a corset in toile, covering it in fine layers of wool and cotton, and then stretching silk satin with elastic on top to achieve a seamless effect. In fact, every look was meticulously styled with the shoes, bags, and everything in between, and embroidered in all manner of techniques, from Matador cording to resin rosettes.

With a story that started with Daniel looking for old and unusual color references and finding an inventory of ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s at an antique shop – some of which found their way to the dresses in this collection – the end result was his inspiration to indulge in a bit of time travel, to design silhouettes that might conjure the Haute Couture of the past. The process began with the ribbons’ colors; including butters, saffrons, faded peacock greens, and burnt saffron browns. And as the experiments and allusions in form unravel, he created what feels new because it’s old, shedding light on the fact that the new can also be worked, be baroque, and be extravagant.