Inspired by Christian Dior’s Ligne H collection of Autumn-Winter 1954-1955, Dior Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones explored the metamorphosis of menswear this season. Couture and ready-to-wear intertwined, especially at the beginning and the end of the show.

The collection embodied the notion of metamorphosis in the very sense of the word – think the changing garments of the archive, the alternation between the feminine and the masculine, and pieces of clothing that actually change such as the coat that can be turned into a skirt. From fitted to flared, the collection displayed a play of volumes that is particularly seen in the robes and “Opera” coats borrowed from the women’s archive. And just like the finishes, the fabrics were the noblest as silks and satin predominate, yet reflect a certain strictness and rigor through the designs.

Also echoing this sense of duality were the bags, which bring together soft constructions and masculine hardware. In the shoes, classic and dressy men leather designs were combined with a knotted satin toe cap or “bow cap”. However, these were not the only pieces standing out from the collection, as the embroidery, taken from Monsieur Dior’s Spring-Summer 1948 Haute Couture Pondichéry look, also stole the lights through its recreation on the pink robe that closed the show.

Well, if this wasn’t a show to remember, we don’t know what would it be.