Inspired by the arrival of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic games in Paris, Maria Grazia Chiuri used the language of Haute Couture to pay tribute to athletes who have always overcome prejudice and obstacles to ensure a level playing field in sports contests. Therefore, Chiuri returned to the peplum, a garment she holds so dear.
Against a backdrop featuring the paintings of artist, feminist, activist and educator Faith Ringgold, the Creative Director’s vision came to life through a material that didn’t belong to the couture world: the jersey – which came in the form of metal mesh in gold, silver and white, embracing the silhouette with the help of an ultralight inner bustier structuring the outfits. Pleats also made a strong comeback in this collection, whether sewn down or open to accompany movement. Draping took over embroidered silk dresses, ensembles with a draped skirt revealed a pair of pants at each step, and goddess dresses unveiled transparent metallic tank tops trimmed in satin. And amidst this blend of couture and sportswear, a sports jersey came up adorned with gold leaves or micro sequins, while a bathrobe embellished with mosaic mirrors was given a new function.
In this couture show, classicism, rebellion, collective energy and, above all, the political value of the female body took center stage, as in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s lexicon, it was her way to assert the power of Haute Couture and express the elegance of a woman who is at once delicate and strong.
