You know a Gucci show is about to start when the most important faces of the fashion industry are all impatiently sitting at the edge of their seats. 

The label’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, was inspired by “the playful practice of crossing and exploring urban spaces” this season. This translated into colorful designs, which almost looked vintage while keeping a sense of modernity. The bright green lace dress, which launched the show, came with a red waist-belt and a zip in the middle, which made it look both retro and contemporary.

The visually poetic collection was full of quirky summary prints, like pineapple and parrots motifs that covered pleated skirts, and stunning funky suits. Michele successfully managed to incorporate 16th century Roman prints and chinoiserie, as well as groovy geometrical shapes onto his creations.  

Trompe l’oeil was also a key theme this season. A fuchsia skirt – which looked as though it came straight out of a comic book – had pleats drawn onto it. 

A fur brown coat with teal leaves embellishments could not have looked more seventies – but somehow, on Gucci’s runway, it looked like the next big trend. Only someone like Michele can make the new look old and yet look new. Now that’s an exploration of urban art.

Leonore Dicker