Space has always been an informal code of Schiaparelli and this dates back to 1877, when Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli discovered a series of channels as large as the Grand Canyon on the surface of Mars. The family has since been obsessed with astrology, and to pay homage to this obsession, Daniel Roseberry designed a Couture collection up to this level of legacy and avant-gardism. He created objects composed of familiar parts that, when brought together, formed something new and unexpected.
Honoring the founding couturière’s design philosophy, the looks combined old-world techniques – such as over-embroidered guipure laces, velvet and lace appliqués, and hand-cut and embroidered chenille fringe – with innovative shapes and patterns. The collection witnessed a marriage between Elsa’s references and those of Roseberry, welcoming iconographies from the designer’s home state Texas embodied in details such as a bandana remade in hand-painted paillettes, thigh-high cowboy boots bristling with buckles, iconic horse braid dressage knots reimagined as silk satin spikes adorning a camel suede bomber jacket and a white denim corset suit.
And to make the collection totally “Schiaparelli”, Elsa’s famous codes – such as the keyhole, the measuring tape and the anatomical body parts – were embedded in jewelry, shoes, clutches and embroidery, as a secret message to the women who wear them.