Classicism, elegance, and subversion defined Kim Jones’ Fall/Winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection for FENDI. Finding inspiration in the wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi and the way she wears the House’s creations with an instinctive sense of self-expression, the collection came out as a series of binaries - the exploration and elevation of deconstruction, the interpolation of gendered archetypes and the disturbance of ladylike sophistication.

Nonchalance took an elegant turn and versatility was an important element in the collection. Masculine tailoring was twisted into feminine forms, while utilitarianism was embodied in boilersuits, aprons, and uniforms. Lacquered lace was layered, while lingerie peeking through the outfits and thigh-high lace-up boots highlighted the collection’s sensual character. Later on, the show shifted to a perfected funk ambiance as knitwear were cleanly slashed or gently warped, felted wools slightly shrunken, and ribbed knits unbuttoned or worn askew. Romance came next, with satin dresses supplied with a twisted drape and trailed by billowing scarves taking the runway.

The collection’s graphic motifs took us on a trip down memory lane to FENDI’s Fall/Winter 1996 archive and to Karl Lagerfeld’s 1981 sketches. And in terms of accessories, the new FENDI Multi bag was introduced, a well as the new FENDI C’mon, in pure designs fit for the sophistication of the collection – a duality that is, and will always be, very FENDI.