Lifestyle 8 June
2015

The Inspiration Behind Van Cleef & Arpels’ Most Exquisite Watch Novelties Yet

by Mirella Haddad

This year’s edition of SIHH 2015 saw the launch of eight new Van Cleef & Arpels jeweled timepieces that mark the history of the legendary house by their bold timelessness and femininity. Maison Van Cleef & Arpels remains inspired by flora, Fauna and symbols of luck to create pieces that tell time poetically while also speaking the language of nature.

Two new designs have been added to the ‘Poetic Complications’ collection, Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Coccinelle and Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis. In celebration of the house’s centenary, the collection was first launched in 2006 and evokes nature’s perpetual motion. In these two latest additions, one captures the scene of a ladybird, another a bird-of-paradise, each representing cycles of the sun and moon thanks to a 24-hour movement technique. The painted landscapes are contoured with champlevé and cloisonné enamel and as the time passes the dial changes from a diurnal scene to a nocturnal one.

Considered an eternal symbol of good faith, ladybirds in Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Coccinelle has always been a cherished house emblem. Set on a poetic journey, this watch features a four-leaf clovers accompanied by two creatures that appear during the day and by night a bouquet of diamond-set flowers is revealed.

The Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis dial sees a bird of paradise setting its diamond-set feathered train on a bird of paradise flower. By night, the flower disappears and the dial reveals a diamond-set moon with shining stars and a detailed bird's train subtly embedded in the night landscape to further emphasize the once present bird of paradise.

First launched in 2008, the ‘Charms Extraordinaire Language des Fleurs’ collection constitutes one of the most emblematic lines in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels. Featuring timepieces with clean lines, the numbered collection remains faithful to a feminine aesthetic. Each Charms timepiece is embellished with a charm that spins to the movement of the wrist. This year’s novelties are adorned with shimmering flower bouquets and the charm takes the shape of a floral motif.

To reflect spring's romanticism, the dials are decorated with buttercups, daffodils, crocuses, lilacs, wallflowers and forget-me-nots, set with precious stones selected according to highest standards of purity, to add a delicate finishing touch to the three new timepieces that bear messages of hope, love and desire.

Charms Extraordinaire Espérence is the smallest timepiece of the collection with a 25mm case. With a palette of sun-kissed colors, the dial features a buttercup, symbolic of beauty, adorned with cabochonné enamel which then spins around a row of yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets, white mother-of-pearl and yellow-colored daffodil to indicate true love’s desire. The painted chickweed represents a hopeful meeting.

The desire for new romance is reflected in the Charms Extraordinaire Désir timepiece. Decorated with a lilac, the symbol of young love, and cabochonné enamel crocuses, the flower comes in pink sapphires and amethysts set against a backdrop of painted mother-of-pearl. Considered a symbol of happiness, the crocus also comes in the shape of a charm that spins around the dial.

The Charms Extaordinaire Amour’s 38mm case includes a wallflower, forget-me-not and cyclamen, each respectively representative of memory, beauty and lasting sentiments. Thanks to the intricate detailing on the painted mother-of-pearl dial, cyclamens and wallflowers adorned with cabochonne enamel appear to be in motion. Framed by varying gradients of pink sapphires, the flowers highlight the wallflower charm that comes in pink sapphire and spessartite garnet.

Capturing the natural beauty of white diamonds that symbolize purity and eternal love, Van Cleef & Arpels has created the high-jewelry À Cheval watch. First launched in 1981, this timepiece embodies a sophisticated nod to feminine grace. Using a unique setting method, the diamonds overlap on a flexible bracelet. A delicate exterior attachment, connecting the bracelet to the clasp, comes in the shape of a horseshoe to symbolize luck.

Matching the Carpes Koï ring from the high jewelry ‘Palais de la Chance’ collection, the Carpes Koï watch pays tribute to the theme of nature in motion that has been used by the house since its first creations. Honoring the Japanese culture, this timepiece comes in the shape of a carp – an orange-colored fish with soothing properties. Symbolizing love, serenity and life, the bright colors used in the watch are reminiscent of Zen gardens. Known for swimming against the current, the carp also embodies strength and courage.

Created in 1935, the Cadenas watch is one of the most iconic pieces launched by the house of Van Cleef & Arpels. Symbolic of sentimental attachment through the use of a padlock-shaped clasp, the watch originally drew its inspiration from the Duchess of Windsor. The timepiece’s bracelet is like a zip-necklace with a double snake chain. Modern and bold with a distinct flair, this classic piece comes in a new-jeweled version with an enlarged dial and a secure clasp.